Blame it on the weather…
The day starts of promising as the wakeup call includes a possible walrus sighting from the bridge deck. To this point in the trip there has been much talk about seeing at least one walrus. We can check off whales, seals and polar bears, but are waiting to see walrus. Within seconds MG is up, dressed, and camera in hand, he heads to the deck (his ability to get ready in an instant when necessary always impresses me). I opt for a shower. Unfortunately, there was either no walrus or it was gone quickly. Further disappointment arrives at breakfast – it is too windy to make a shore landing at Cape Heller (still within Franz Josef Land). We are encouraged to take up walrus watch on the bridge. MG diligently stands watch with half of our north pole BFFs, I spend the morning reading and sleeping off a headache. I intended to meet MG after a short nap, but somehow when I woke up it was almost lunch time!
On route to the dining room, we take a detour to the bridge – just in case – and our group quickly spots whales close to the ship. We are able to see several bowhead whales, which are apparently quite rare. Post lunch, we are warned that although we are approaching Cape Tegetthof (still within Franz Josef Land), the wind is still quite strong and we will miss our second planned shore landing of the day. Disappointing, but the fact that nothing is guaranteed and everything is weather dependent has been clearly explained at the outset of the journey. We do, however, see several whales and get so close that we bump into an iceberg – our first iceberg sighting as they are not common in the area. As a consolation prize for not getting back into the zodiacs today, we travel on a detour to a narrow channel. The islands of Franz Josef Land are connected by large glaciers. We venture as far as the vessel can physically maneuver and stop to take in the sights – the view is pretty spectacular and without moving the wind is not as aggressive.
After about an hour, the ship slowly turns. As the sun breaks through the clouds, we leave Franz Josef Land and head back on course. We say goodbye to the last few pieces of ice and note that the next time we see land it will be in two days when we arrive back in Murmansk.
Following the evening briefing, we have a special Russian themed dinner, celebrating our time in the arctic and also signaling approaching end to our journey.