First steps on Land…
With an early wakeup call, we head to the deck as the vessel approaches Rubini Rock. We first hear the birds before we can clearly see them, but then there are suddenly thousands. Hundreds of black and white birds (which resemble tiny flying penguins – and if we had attended the birds of the arctic lecture, we would be more knowledgeable) fly in close proximity to the rock, but there are thousands in total. They are all concentrated on one rock, despite being surrounded by many tiny islands. The vessel stops about 100m from the rock and we take in the sheer volume of birds.
After breakfast – during which MG comments “there is a day where I need to stop eating bacon – but that day has not yet come” – we layer up and head out on Zodiac boats. As we tour around the appropriately named “Calm Bay” in Franz Josef Land we get an even closer look at Rubini Rock (and it is worth enduring the smell associated with thousands of birds living in one area). Although an hour passes, the tour feels a bit short and we are almost disappointed to not be out exploring more.
After lunch, however, we are back in the Zodiacs and make a shore landing at a closer Polar station on Hooker Island (one of the approximately 200 named islands part of Franz Josef Land). The island is covered in ice and vegetation – it’s our first steps on land since we departed in Murmansk. We spend several hours wandering around the abandoned site of the first polar station (operating from August 1929 until 1963). Surprisingly well maintained, the wooden buildings and other structures continue to stand despite years or weathering the elements. Its warmer than expected, as the sun is out and the wind is limited in the bay. We wander around, MG taking pictures, and explore the sight further – occasionally sinking deep into the snow and attempting to avoid the muddy areas scattered within the rocky surroundings. Several hours pass quickly and we are among the last passengers to be taken back to the vessel…where we are greeting with delish hot glühwein upon arrival (I go back for a second glass and accidentally start thinking about Christmas).
After dinner and a few drinks and laughs at the bar with our north pole BFFs, we end the day back at 80⁰N.